Oceano, The gem of Lake Worth Beach
The second you walk into the new space where Oceano resides, you’re taken over by the wonderful blend of mid century shapes and wood tones, those pops of yellow, and all that light. It feels happy.
For those that don’t know, this restaurant comes with a tremendous amount of lore from the last 7 years in a small spot in Lantana. Even then, it was the best restaurant in the county. Now though, its stepped into a new category, a full service, large scale, fine dining haven. The old spot was charming, cramped, a chefs table you had to fight to get a seat at but there was something wonderful about that, the romance of fighting for what you love will never be lost on me, but this shell, this new space they painstakingly put together is really a special space. Its the reward for years of hard work, the realization of real success, and I couldn’t be happier their upgrade landed them in Lake worth beach, my town.
The two chefs, a couple, Jeremy & Cindy Bearman, are a lovely example of big city goes beach town ~ and were just so very grateful for it. Their journey through prestigious kitchens molded their deep understanding of the industry, from Cindy’s roles as pastry chef at ABC Kitchen and work with Jean-Georges and in Martha Stewart Living’s test kitchens, to Jeremy’s tenure at Michelin-starred Rouge Tomate in NYC and experiences under Daniel Boulud and Joël Robuchon. Their backgrounds in these types of kitchens is a rare find in this area, and the level of their cooking is simply above the rest.
I found these guys almost immediately after moving from Los Angeles, it was one of the only places that was making exciting and thoughtful food. Id spent the better part of a decade eating at dozens upon dozens of the best restaurants in the world, so when I moved to this area I was not prepared for the culture shock. The food scene was more or less non existent. Thats not to say there aren’t restaurants, there are plenty. The quality though, were talking about different planets, not even close here. So, finding this little spot in a tiny unassuming area like Lantana was a blessing. After seven years in that cozy Lantana bungalow on Ocean Ave (complete with a 40‑seat, cash-only, no-reservations setup) they were forced to relocate when their lease ended. They transitioned into a 3,500‑square‑foot former co‑working/events venue on Lucerne Ave in Lake Worth Beach and its been a hit since opening. The new space is something this area has been missing, its light and bright, beautiful mid century roof lines, the classy use of yellow that was so recognizable with the original location, the tile work and beautiful woods ~ it feels expensive without trying too hard, its a lovely space. Included is indoor dining, a bar, front terrace, private dining room, and a relaxed back patio and garden. One of the prized items in the entire place is a brand-new wood-fire pizza oven imported all the way from Italy, thats reaches up to 900°. Show me the char!
The food here is seasonal, farm-fresh, and smart. Their mastery of a regular changing dishes and improvisation blended with refined technique has rightfully earned them a coveted James Beard semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: South in 2023. You do not get nominations like this unless you’re doing something very right, a massive achievement. They’ve managed to maintain the spirit of spontaneity and locally sourcing that has defined their identity since they arrived in South Florida years ago. The food is of course the prized jewel, but on the flip side is the polish. Without the staff and excellence in hospitality it wouldn’t be nearly as shiny. The experience from top to bottom is what I crave in a night out, mastery in front and back of house, and it is truly one of the very few places in this county up at this level. Its worth the trip, and book well ahead, its a hot table.